About William Willmore
About Colonal Charles R. Drake
Looking Back at Long Beach Willmore*
by Loretta Berner
Local
tradition has attributed the statement, “It would be a magnificent place
for a colony” to William Erwin Willmore who founded Willmore City which
eventually became Long Beach. In a public address given by him in 1899, he
is quoted as saying, “In that thought, the town was really born.”
An
only child, William had been brought to this country by his father shortly
after the death of William’s mother. His father died a few years later,
and William was left alone because he had no other relatives and had never
married. Arriving in California with the intention of visiting the new colony
of Anaheim, he began the long walk across the open fields since there was
no available transportation. He followed the rough path, known as Anaheim
Road. That stretched east across the flats toward the new colony. Somewhere
around present-day Anaheim Street and Long Beach Boulevard William stopped
to rest; when he looked back over the valley, he later related that his dream
of a city took shape. At that time he was just a young man with no means to
start such an undertaking, but he never forgot the idea.
In
1868, the International Immigrant Union was established in San Francisco to
encourage people across the nation to settle in California. When the transcontinental
railroad was completed in May of 1869, another company—called the California
Immigrant Union—was also organized. This new company concentrated on
taking over the large estates, such as the ranchos, and subdividing them into
small farms to be sold to the expected new settlers.
The
directors of the California Immigrant Union included railroad manager, bankers,
merchants, and any other public-spirited citizens who wished to get in on
the business which was anticipated to be financially lucrative. Oddly, the
company had no capital stock, but was supported by subscriptions from its
members to the tune of $36,000 a year. Jotham Bixby, the owner of Rancho Los
Cerritos was one of its directors and a liberal supporter.
Not
remaining for long in the southland, Mr. Willmore drifted on into Oregon and
Washington for several years, according to available accounts. In 1879, he
returned to Los Angeles and became the manager of the California Immigrant
Union. Then the old dream of a city by the sea began to take form again, this
time with a definite end in view. This first task to confront him in his new
position, however, was the establishment of the city of Fresno. So this dream
was again put aside for a few more years.
At
one of the meetings of the directors of the California Immigrant Union, the
suggestion was made to Jotham Bixby that a part of his vast acreage of Rancho
Los Cerritos should be the next selection for a subdivision. This was Mr.
Willmore’s chance to submit his ideas and plans for a town site and
for the establishment of a farming community north of the city itself. William
proposed that the farms be sold as 10, 20,40 and 80 acre tracts, ranging in
price from $12.50 to $15 and $20 per acre. It was expected that the farmers
would find a ready market for their produce in the new city.
Jotham
Bixby had already begun to sell some small farm tracts and other parts of
the rancho, and these new plans for a city on the beach were soon approved.
Arrangements were made with the company surveyor, Captain Charles T. Healey,
to come down from San Francisco and lay out the tract.
It
was to be called American Colony, and at first this name seems to have included
both the town site and the farming area to the north. However, after some
discussion, it was suggested by Major Ben Trueman of the Los Angeles Daily
Star, with whom the company advertised the plan, that the town site be called
Willmore City. The farming community to the north of the town would retain
the name of American Colony.
The
expression “city planning” was not in common usage in Mr. Willmore’s
day, but his plans for the future community were well-plotted. The town site
of Willmore City, as shown on Captain Healey’s map, was twelve blocks
wide and extended ten blocks back from the ocean. Magnolia Avenue was the
limit of the town site on the west, and California Avenue was the boundary
on the east. Beginning with Ocean Park Avenue, the east-west streets were
numbered from one to ten. The other streets—with the exception of American
Avenue (now Long Beach Boulevard), Atlantic Avenue, Pacific Avenue, and California
Avenue—were all given names of trees.
A
notation on the map filed in Los Angeles on October 23, 1882, by surveyor
Charles Healey stated that all streets running north and south were 80 feet
wide except for Magnolia, Pacific, Atlantic, and California avenues which
were 100 feet wide. American Avenue, a primary boulevard, was 125 feet wide.
All alleys running east and west had a width of ten feet, and those running
north and south were 16 feet wide. Lots had a 25 foot frontage unless otherwise
indicated.
Ocean
Park Avenue, 175 feet wide, followed the contour of the bluff. One hundred
feet of this was to be a street, and the 75 remaining feet between this street
and the bluff was to be planted with trees to make a shady promenade overlooking
the beach and ocean. Except for one or two hotel sites, no other buildings
were to be erected on the south side of Ocean Park Avenue.
All houses on the north side of the street were to be built at least 30 feet
north of the front line, and every lot was to be guaranteed an unobstructed
view of the ocean. A designated park site which was originally called Pacific
Park and later became known as Lincoln Park, is now the site of the library
and civic center. Other lots were also set aside for public use, such as the
half block at Sixth Street and Pine Avenue for a school, and a whole block
was reserved for a church with grounds for camp meetings on the land north
of Third Street between American and Locust Avenues.
American Avenue, which ran through the center of town, extended out through American Colony and was to have a row of eucalyptus trees down the center. It was to be the show avenue of the town, second only in importance to Ocean Park Avenue.
All
the lots on this street were 250 feet deep, and all the buildings were to
be set back at least 100 feet from the street to allow plenty of room for
lawns, trees, and flowers.
One other part of Mr. Willmore’s plan deserves special mention. All
lots were arranged so that they faced south, west or east. No lot faced the
north. It was thought that this arrangement would guarantee the greatest amount
of sunlight for each house.
*This
article appeared in the Long Beach Review. Loretta was a charter member and
past president of the Long Beach Historical Society, and a charter member
and past member of the board of directors of both the Rancho Los Cerritos
docent and the Rancho Los Alamitos Associates.
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(taken from the City of Long Beach Web site)
The Drake Park Historic District is located in a subdivision that was originally
called Knoll Park. The low hills in the neighborhood remind visitors why its
developers called it Knoll Park and why they named a street in the area Loma
Vista (Spanish for view from a hill). Although the area is now surrounded
by residential, commercial and industrial neighbors, when it was originally
subdivided, it was on the western edge of residential development in Long
Beach, and the harbor area commercial and industrial developments that now
block the residents’ view of the ocean were not yet built.1
The
district is located on land that was owned, at the time it was subdivided,
by the Seaside Water Company. Beginning in March 1903, lots in the area were
advertised for sale.2 In 1904 the ads claimed that the area was "…something
of an experiment in Long Beach. It is not usual here to spend such large amounts
on grading and cement work as was used in improving this tract before a lot
was sold."3 Another ad asserted, "Over $7,000 has been spent on
cement walks and curbs and a still larger sum on grading and putting in the
water. The restrictions provide that no house shall be built costing less
than $1,000. This assures every home builder that no shack shall be allowed
to mar this property."4 Also noted in the advertising was that the tract
was only one block from the Magnolia Avenue streetcar line.5 Although it wasn’t
mentioned in the ads, the developers seem to have wanted to identify their
subdivision with an affluent Los Angeles neighborhood of the same name by
calling two of its streets Chester Place and St. James Place.6
By
the time most of the initial construction in the area ended in 1929, a varied
group of residents lived in the neighborhood. Although the newspaper ads had
promised a "bon ton"7 development, the area apparently attracted
a varied group of residents, mainly middle class. Original owners included:
a porter at the Virginia Hotel; a printing press operator; a conductor on
the Pacific Electric Red car, Atkins Ivy, lived at 923 Park Circle; and Arthur
Hudson, a mechanical engineer for the Craig Shipbuilding Company. Later, professionals
such as Sidney Angove, an engineer, lived at 702 Loma Vista Dr. John Atwood
who lived at 925 Park Circle. Skilled workers such as Isaac Smith, a carpenter,
lived at 713 Loma Vista and Rowland Oliver, a mechanic with the Neubert Machine
Works, lived at 939 Park Circle. There were also businessmen, such as S.S.
Heath, who owned a nearby grocery store at 906 Daisy, and lived at 923 Park
Circle. Carl Heick, who lived on the prestigiously named Chester Place, was
a laborer.8
On
January 11, 1904, the city accepted title to the newly developed Knoll Park.9
It was a 1.86-acre plot with a circular rose garden in the center. Soon ornamental
light standards were erected in the park so it could be used at night; benches
lined the walkways and restrooms were built.10
Sometime in 1926 or 1927, the name Knoll Park was changed to Drake Park to
honor Charles R. Drake,11 the organizer of the Seaside Water Company which
developed the area as a residential subdivision.
Drake’s interest in Long Beach may have begun in 1901 when he represented
Henry E. Huntington, owner of the Pacific Electric inter-urban trolley system,
in bidding for a franchise to build a line to Long Beach.12 In the same year,
Drake organized the Seaside Water Company to purchase the interests of two
local water companies, the Bouton Water Company and the Long Beach Development
Company.13 The Development Company also owned some still unsold property in
the original Long Beach townsite.14
When
the Pacific Electric began building its line to Long Beach, Drake organized
the Long Beach Bath House and Amusement Company and announced plans to build
a bath house on the beach near the end of the street car line. Here is how
Walter Case, a local journalist, described Drake and the impact of his local
developments in 1927:
"The
name of Colonel Charles R. Drake, president of Long Beach Bath House and Amusement
association, is outstanding in the history of Long beach development, particularly
with respect tot he amusement zone. It was on July 4, 1902 that the foundation
was laid for the present-day ‘Walk of a Thousand Lights.’
It
was on that day that 60,000 personas gathered in the then small resort to
celebrate two big and important events, the inauguration of Pacific Electric
service from Los Angeles to Long Beach and the opening of the Long Beach Bath
House. This was a red-letter occasion for Long Beach.
According
to Colonel Drake, Long Beach then was a town of 1,800 population. Only a few
far-sighted and enterprising businessmen who had sufficient faith in the growth
of the little city by the sea would invest money in amusement enterprises.
A long strip of white, shell-strewn beach and a few small stores comprised
the entire metropolis.
In
those early years, with the opening of the Bath House, Long Beach boasted
the only institution of the kind within a radius of many miles. As this and
other attractions were added, people from inland began to flock to Long Beach
to pass the weekends at the beach city, and many who came thus to play remained
as residents.
The
Long Beach Bath House and Amusement Company next constructed a boardwalk 12
feet long along the beach and later a 15 foot walk replaced the smaller one
until eventually the present 35 foot cement walk was constructed."15
Subsequently,
the area became known as the Pike and was Long Beach’s entertainment
center for both local residents and tourists. Visitors could rent swimming
suits, change their clothes in the bath house and swim in the ocean or later
in a heated, indoor, salt-water plunge. They could also ride a roller coaster
or other rides, eat lunch or dinner, purchase specialty items, attend movies
or vaudeville shows, dance in ballrooms or just sit and watch their fellow
citizens pass by.
Drake
was also involved in the construction and operation of the Virginia Hotel;
it was Long Beach’s most elegant landmark in the 1910’s and 1920’s.
The hotel’s early history, however, was not without difficulty. In July
1905, the cornerstone for the hotel, originally called the Bixby Hotel, was
laid. In November, as construction was progressing, a central portion of the
reinforced concrete building collapsed; ten workers were killed and scores
were injured. After a coroner’s jury found "no person criminally
liable," work on the hotel resumed. A few months later, it was announced
that the name had been changed to the Virginia Hotel. It opened in March 1908
and was closed in October 1932 for economic reasons.16 Drake was living at
the hotel at the time of his death in 1928.17
The
Virginia Country Club was organized in 1910 partially to accommodate the guests
at the new hotel. It was located on 116 acres leased for ten years from the
Alamitos Land Company that later became part of Recreation Park. In 1921 the
club moved to its present location on a 135-acre tract in Los Cerritos.18
In
addition to his other activities to promote the development of Long Beach,
Drake served as district commander for the third Liberty Loan campaign in
1918; as a result of this campaign, Long Beach citizens subscribed $2,410,000,
twice their quota, to support United States participation in the First World
War.19
Before
coming to California in 1900, Drake was born in Walnut Prairie, Illinois in
1843. He served in the civil war and then came west to Tucson where he engaged
in the insurance and real estate business. He also served in the Arizona Territorial
Senate and, for one term, was president of that body. Additionally, he was
one of the organizers of the firm of Norton-Drake which handled labor contracts
of the Southern Pacific Railroad Company. So it was consistent with his previous
experience when he came to Long Beach representing a railway company also
associated with the Southern Pacific Railroad.20
Now
most of the institutions associated with Drake are gone. The Virginia Hotel,
the Bath House, and The Pike have closed; the Pacific Electric street car
line no longer brings visitors to Long Beach and the Seaside Water Company
is part of Long Beach’s municipal water system. Only the Virginia Country
Club and Drake Park development remain to honor his memory and contributions
to local development.
In
1939, Drake Park’s rose garden was converted into a playground. That
play area was expanded in 1947 when a clubhouse and sprinkler system were
also added.21
As
time passed, the homes around the park grew older, families moved away and
some homes were replaced by post-World War II style apartment buildings. In
1967, the Park, which had originally been laid out to complement the neighborhood,
threatened to destroy part of it. In that year, Long Beach city officials
proposed to tear down the buildings on 26 residential parcels in order to
expand the park to 6.3 acres.22 Most of the historic homes on the northwest
side of Park Circle were destroyed but public protest saved the area’s
most outstanding Victorian house, the Bembridge House, now owned by Long Beach
Heritage.
Long
Beach Board of Trade, 1900
1 LB Evening Tribune, 03/10/03
2 LB Daily Press, 02/10/04
3 LB Evening Tribune, 09/30/03
4 LB Evening Tribune, 12/22/03
5 For early street names, see P.V. Pearsall, Pearsall’s Map of Long
Beach and Vicinity (compiled and published by P.V. Pearsall, C.E., corrected,
January 1, 1925); on the affluent Los Angeles neighborhood see, Chester Place:
Mount St. Mary’s College Doheny Campus, Los Angeles (Los Angeles: Mount
St. Mary’s College, 1982).
6 Long Beach Daily Press, 04/02/03
7 Long Beach City Directory, 1929, (Long Beach: Western Directory Company,
1929).
8 "Municipal Ownership" Long Beach Daily Press, 01/12/04.
9 Bernice C. Barker, "History of Long Beach City Parks" (October
3, 1973) p. 14-15. Long Beach History Collection, Long Beach Public Library
and Kathleen Travis, "Historic Preservation: Nature, Theory, History
and Survey on Drake Park in Long Beach, California" (unpublished master’s
thesis in Art History, California State University, Long Beach, December 1979),
p. 150-151.
10 Long Beach, California, "Auditor’s Annual Report, Fiscal year
Ending June 30, 1926," p. 41 lists Knoll Park, Long Beach, California,
"Annual Report of the City Auditor, Fiscal Year Ending June 30, 1927,
" p. 42 lists Drake (formerly Knoll) Park.
11 Walter Case, History of Long Beach and Vicinity (Chicago: The S.J. Clarke
Publishing Company, 1927) Vol. I, P. 242-245.
12 Ibid. p. 224.
13 Ibid. p. 107-108.
14 Ibid. p. 521-522.
15 Walter Case, Long Beach Blue Book (Long Beach: Arthur H. Cawston, 1942),
p. 201-202.
16 "Prominent Friends of Col. C.R. Drake to be Pallbearers," Long
Beach Sun (June 18, 1928).
17 Walter Case, Long Beach Blue Book, p. 89.
18 Walter Case, History of Long Beach and Vicinity, Vol. 1, p. 578.
19 Ellis Davis, Davis Commercial Encyclopedia (Berkeley: Ellis Davis, 1914),
p. 171.
20 Barker, "History of Long Beach Parks," p. 14-15 and Travis, "Historic
Preservation," p.150-151.
21 Ibid. and Mary Ellis Carlton, "How Many More Days of Grace,"
Independent Press Telegram, Long Beach (June 15, 1969) cited in Travis.
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